The ultimate guide to making sure that hair extensions won’t damage your hair.
Hair extensions are the perfect way to add length, volume, or colour to your hair.
However, being a hairstylist, salon owner and now supplier of hair extensions to professional stylists, I realise that one of the biggest concerns hair stylist’s clients will express is whether hair extensions can cause damage to the natural hair.
This is why I decided to write this blog, to explain that it isn’t just a straight Yes or No.
The honest answer is, yes hair extensions can have the potential to cause damage to hair, however they shouldn’t just as long as the correct hair extension methods, correct installation, and correct aftercare are followed.
So here I’ll address everything regarding whether hair extensions are damaging to hair plus the things which can prevent damage happening so clients can enjoy their hair extensions and hair stylists can relax.
Selecting the correct hair extension method to suit the hair type is key.
This is because each client’s hair will be unique, and selecting the incorrect method for the hair can lead to unnecessary stress and damage.
I’ve listed a few popular hair extension methods and the types of hair they usually suit best:
- Tape in hair extensions:
- These are great for: Fine to medium hair but not baby fine hair.
- This is because they are flat and lightweight minimising strain on finer hair.
- Keratin Bonds (Fusion, flat tips or nail tips):
- These are great for: Medium to thick hair.
- This is because they are durable but require strong hair to support the bonds.
- Micro Rings (Beads, or Itips):
- These are great for: Fine to medium and thick hair but not baby fine hair.
- This is because they are a non-adhesive method which is gentle on removal so provided the hair is strong enough for the rings this method is very versatile for lots of hair types.
- Sew-Ins (Weaves, genius, flat, invisible weft):
- These are great for: Medium, thick and coarse hair.
- This is because the installation, usually beads applied in small sections with the weft sewn into the beads. This is why this method works better on thicker more dense hair textures.
- Clip-Ins:
- These are great for: Occasional use on all hair types.
- This is because they are temporary and non-invasive if used occasionally.
Pro Tip 1: A thorough consultation and hair analysis should always be carried out before recommending any type of extension method.
Pro Tip 2: A photo does not represent the hair texture adequately plus tests to check the condition and strength of the hair should be carried out prior to any hair extension method.
Pro Tip 3: A consultation sheet should always be completed to check whether lifestyle will impact the method selected plus medical history and any hair loss related issues discussed.
Common risks which can occur due to incorrect installation.
Here are the most common problems which can arise due to hair extensions not being installed correctly or the wrong method being used:
- Too much tension, weight or stress applied to the hair and hair follicles:
- Result: Traction alopecia (hair loss caused by weight and pulling on roots).
- Cause: Extensions applied too tightly or on weak hair plus too much weight pulling the bulbs inside the follicles.
- Breakage at attachment areas:
- Result: Splitting or hair snapping.
- Cause: Heavy extensions on fine hair or incorrect positioning and sectioning.
- Uneven or poor weight distribution:
- Result: Discomfort and tangling.
- Cause: Sections not evenly balanced in proportion.
Pro Tip: It is super important to select a stylist who is certificated and experienced not just in hair extensions but in the methods best suited to each type of hair.
Aftercare is the key to ensuring healthy hair.
Client’s aftercare plays a significant part in preventing damage after extensions are installed.
This is why correct aftercare is essential, so I’ve put together some guidelines some of the most important aftercare advice.
Things you should be doing:
- Use stylist recommended hair extension friendly aftercare products.
- Brush gently with a brush designed for hair extensions to prevent pulling.
- When brushing or combing support the attachments at the root.
- Begin brushing or combing on the ends first then work your way up the hair.
- Sleep with hair in a loose braid or ponytail to avoid tangling.
- Never sleep with wet or damp hair extensions.
- Attend regular maintenance appointments every 6-8 weeks.
Things you should avoid:
- Avoid using oils or heavy products near the hair extension attachments as they can loosen or the adhesive can break down causing slippage.
- If you have a knot never tug or detangle aggressively.
- Avoid using excessive heat near attachments to prevent melting or weakening bonds.
Examples to help illustrate how clients can avoid damage:
Scenario 1: Incorrect brushing using wrong type of brush
- Result: If a client brushes their hair with a regular brush, it will tug the hair and place stress on the extensions. Also brushes with hard prongs or bobbles on the ends will snag the hair and catch up in the attachments causing them to loosen or hairs may loosen from the bonds which will cause matting and be uncomfortable.
Scenario 2: Not attending regular maintenance appointments
- Result: Extensions grow out too much and cause matting near the roots. This will be damaging and will potentially become caught when brushing. It will also cause excessive stress on the roots of the hair and not leave enough hair inside the hair attachment to support the weight of the hair extension.
Scenario 3: Not using stylist recommended products.
- Result: Using incorrect products can create build up on the hair causing the extensions to feel dry and unmanageable. It can also weaken bonds and causing slippage and shedding from the attachments. Also hair extensions can discolour or fade when certain products are used.
A hair stylist’s role isn’t just about applying the hair extensions.
- The role of a good hair stylist is to recommend the correct methods.
- To also know how much hair you will need plus create that bespoke colour match to give the ultimate seamless blend.
- It is also about empowering clients with the knowledge they need to understand why they are being recommended a particular method and also provide the necessary pros and cons of all suitable methods to suit all types of hair plus life style.
- Making an informed and educated decision and being happy with your choice is key as knowing what is involved and having a detailed aftercare plan will help provide the clarity needed regarding the potential risks of neglecting them.
In summery:
Hair extensions can provide a perfectly safe and damage free solution for clients looking to enhance their hair but only when the everything is done correctly.
Selecting the appropriate method, ensuring correct and professional installation, plus receiving education on the best aftercare practices are the keys to success.